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I had to do some work on my headset (H10-40)and picked up a second one that also needed some work. So, I thought I would share what I learned. I forgot to take pictures, but will add them if I redo another one.
On my original headset, I noticed that the mic (M4, green one) was intermittent. It would stop working and if I pushed the connector into the mic, it would work for a while. The M4 mic is no longer made. I did see you can get them off of eBay, but depending on condition, it might not be a long term fix. So I called DC, and they have a conversion kit to the latest M7 mic ($87.45).
It is the new mic and a new mic cord. One big change is that the connector is held into the mic by two small set screws, so no more loose connector like mine developed. This is a simple 5 - 10 minute job. You only need a small to medium straight screwdriver for the bolt that holds the mic. The kit includes the tiny Allen wrench for the set screws. One tip, you need to loosen the set screws to get the connector to go into the mic.
On the eBay headset, the mic works fine, but the foam in the cups was deteriorating.
So I ordered replacement foam from DC. They are about $3 per piece. There are 4 pieces in each cup, so $24 for all the foam. And if the foam is shot, you may need to replace the ear seals.
Here is the parts diagram for the H10-30/H10-40. In the old days the H10-30 had a dynamic mic and the H10-40 had the M4 electret mic. The current H10-30 has the M7 electret mic.
You need parts 3, 6, 7, 8. And 9 if you need new ear seals. Number 1 is the spare E clips. And 4 is spare speaker screws. The part number is clickable to take you to the page to add to your cart.
In the old days the H10-30 had a dynamic mic and the H10-40 had the M4 electret mic. The current H10-30 has the M7 electret mic. My first headset was an H10-30, that I replaced the dynamic mic with the M4 electret. The electret mic has much better noise cancellation.
To start, I recommend you remove the two E clips to remove the cup from the headset. You do not need to disconnect any wires, but it helps to be able to twist and turn the cup while working on it. But, due to Murphy, I suggest you order a pack (10) of spare E clips ($4.05). Or you will lose one. If you have spares, you probably won't lose one. I lost one, but once I ordered spares, I found it.
My headsets did not have the top thin pad, but you can grab it with your fingers and pull it out. To remove the first thick foam piece, I used a wooden skewer, but a small fork or spoon would work. You just stab it and pry it out, then grab and pull.
The second foam piece tucks under the speaker and takes a little more persuasion to get out. But the same basic method works to stab it and get it started coming out.
To get the final piece out, you need to remove the speaker. Two straight head screws need to be removed (I ordered a pack of 4 just in case). You can then grab this piece with your fingers.
Putting it back is the reverse. The only tricky part is that the piece under the speaker is not symmetrical. I suggest you start with the ear cup without the volume control (if yours has one). There are less wires and you can see if you have the foam piece oriented properly.
A magnetized screwdriver is very helpful in getting the speaker screws back in.
The top foam pieces just get pushed in with fingers. I made sure that the second piece was tucked under the edge of the speaker. A small spoon helps do this, but fingers work.
TaaDaa, you now have a like new headset.
BTW, the eBay headset I picked up was $80. So for about $130 (foam and new ear seals) I have a like new headset.
On my original headset, I noticed that the mic (M4, green one) was intermittent. It would stop working and if I pushed the connector into the mic, it would work for a while. The M4 mic is no longer made. I did see you can get them off of eBay, but depending on condition, it might not be a long term fix. So I called DC, and they have a conversion kit to the latest M7 mic ($87.45).
It is the new mic and a new mic cord. One big change is that the connector is held into the mic by two small set screws, so no more loose connector like mine developed. This is a simple 5 - 10 minute job. You only need a small to medium straight screwdriver for the bolt that holds the mic. The kit includes the tiny Allen wrench for the set screws. One tip, you need to loosen the set screws to get the connector to go into the mic.
On the eBay headset, the mic works fine, but the foam in the cups was deteriorating.
So I ordered replacement foam from DC. They are about $3 per piece. There are 4 pieces in each cup, so $24 for all the foam. And if the foam is shot, you may need to replace the ear seals.
Here is the parts diagram for the H10-30/H10-40. In the old days the H10-30 had a dynamic mic and the H10-40 had the M4 electret mic. The current H10-30 has the M7 electret mic.
You need parts 3, 6, 7, 8. And 9 if you need new ear seals. Number 1 is the spare E clips. And 4 is spare speaker screws. The part number is clickable to take you to the page to add to your cart.
In the old days the H10-30 had a dynamic mic and the H10-40 had the M4 electret mic. The current H10-30 has the M7 electret mic. My first headset was an H10-30, that I replaced the dynamic mic with the M4 electret. The electret mic has much better noise cancellation.
To start, I recommend you remove the two E clips to remove the cup from the headset. You do not need to disconnect any wires, but it helps to be able to twist and turn the cup while working on it. But, due to Murphy, I suggest you order a pack (10) of spare E clips ($4.05). Or you will lose one. If you have spares, you probably won't lose one. I lost one, but once I ordered spares, I found it.
My headsets did not have the top thin pad, but you can grab it with your fingers and pull it out. To remove the first thick foam piece, I used a wooden skewer, but a small fork or spoon would work. You just stab it and pry it out, then grab and pull.
The second foam piece tucks under the speaker and takes a little more persuasion to get out. But the same basic method works to stab it and get it started coming out.
To get the final piece out, you need to remove the speaker. Two straight head screws need to be removed (I ordered a pack of 4 just in case). You can then grab this piece with your fingers.
Putting it back is the reverse. The only tricky part is that the piece under the speaker is not symmetrical. I suggest you start with the ear cup without the volume control (if yours has one). There are less wires and you can see if you have the foam piece oriented properly.
A magnetized screwdriver is very helpful in getting the speaker screws back in.
The top foam pieces just get pushed in with fingers. I made sure that the second piece was tucked under the edge of the speaker. A small spoon helps do this, but fingers work.
TaaDaa, you now have a like new headset.
BTW, the eBay headset I picked up was $80. So for about $130 (foam and new ear seals) I have a like new headset.
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